Born and raised in Aichi, central Japan, Yukiyasu Osada made his first trip to Tibet in 1987 while a student at Waseda University, Tokyo. He is a Tibet tour guide and a freelance writer.
Atsushi Kanamaru has visited over 20 countries including Tibet, China, Nepal and India. As a former student of Japan's Waseda University, he is now an editor residing in Tokyo.
Travel in Tibet 8
Roads to Tibet 8
Borders 10
Visas 10
Visa Extensions 11
Permits to Enter Tibet 11
Alien Travel Permit 12
In Closed Areas 12
Making Arrangements in Your Own Country 12
Making Arrangements with a Travel Agency in Chengdu 13
Changing Money & Exchange Rates 13
Budgets 13
Guesthouses 13
Transport 14
Hitchhiking in Tibet 14
What to Bring 14
Altitude Sickness 15
Dogs & Rabies 15
Vaccinations 15
Hospitals 20
Language 20
Other Guidebooks 20
Other Maps Available 20
Post & Telecommunications 22
Safety in Tibet 22
Illegal Matters 22
Customs & Taboos 23
Overview 23
Model Tours 24
Tibet in China 24
Ladakh (North-West India) 25
Encounter Tibet in Nepal 26
Darjeeling & Sikkim 27
Bhutan 27
Country Information
China 64
India 280
Nepal 320
Bhutan 376
Nature in Tibet 28
History of Tibet 30
Tibetan Buddhism 36
The World of Tibetan Buddhism 36
The Four Greatest Schools of Tibetan Buddhism 38
Keywords for Prayer 40
The Prayer Scene 40
Entering the World of the Gompa 41
A Monk's Life 43
Buddhas, Deities, etc. in the Mandala World 46
Buddhas, Bodhisattvas & Deities 47
Unraveling the Thangka Message 49
Buddhist Goods 49
Lucky Omen Symbols 50
Animals Found in Thangkas 51
Appreciating the Mandala 52
Fashions 54
Keywords for Tibetan Life 55
Lives in Tibet 55
Things to Wear 55
Food 56
Customs 57
Tibetan Festivals 58
Festival Dates 61
Lhasa 63
Access 65
Practical Information 67
Around the Barkhor 71
Around the Potala Palace 78
Around Lhasa 82
Around Lhasa 85
Ganden Monastery 85
Lhokha (Shannan) Prefecture 88
Samye (Sangye) 88
Chimphu Hermitage 92
Dranang Valley (Zhanang) 92
Tsethang (Zedang) 92
South of Lhasa 95
Nyetang Dolma Lhakhang & Rock Image of Shakyamuni 95
Gongkar (Gongga) 95
Gongkar Choede (Gongkar Dorjeden) 95
Mt. Chuwori 96
Shugseb Ani Gompa 96
Drakyul Caves & Dorje Drak Gompa 97
Upper Reaches of the Kyi-chu (NE from Lhasa) 98
To the North of Lhasa 99
Toelung (Duilongdequingxian) 100
Yamdrok Yumtso Lake to Lhakhang 100
Lhodrak (Luozha) 103
Lhakhang (Lakang) 103
To the East of Tsethang 103
Chusum (Qusong) 103
Lhamo Latso Lake 104
Gyatsa (Jiacha) 104
Nang Dzong (Lang) 105
Tsari 105
Sangak Choeling 106
Lhuntse (Longzi) 106
Tsona (Cuona) 106
Namtso Lake and Nakchu 106
Namtso Lake 106
Nakchu (Naqu) 108
Amdo (Anduo) 108
Lhasa-Kathmandu 109
Tsang (Shigatse & Gyantse) 109
Shigatse (Rikaze) 109
Gyantse (Jiangzi) 114
Around Shigatse 118
Sakya (Sajia) 120
Lhatse to Dram 122
Lhatse (Lazi) 122
Shelkar (New Tingri) 123
Jomolangma Trekking 123
Tingri (Dingri) 126
Lapchi 126
Nyalam (Nielamu) 126
Dram (Khasa) [Zhangmu] 127
To Nepal 128
Lhatse to Saga 129
Kyirong Valley to Nepal 130
Chumbi Valley to Sikkim & Bhutan 131
To Kailash 133
Route to Mt. Kailash 137
Ali (Shiquanhe) 140
Mt.Kailash (Kang Rinpoche) 141
Mt.Kailash Khora (Pilrimage Circuit) 143
Nangkhor (Inner Pilgrimage Circuit) 145
Lake Manasarovar (Mapham Yutso) 145
Langa Tso (Lake Rakshas Tal) 145
Memo Nani (Mt. Nemo Nanyi) 146
Sources of Asia's Great Rivers 146
Border Crossing Purang-Simikot 147
The Guge Ruins 149
Tsamda (Zhada) 149
Tsaparang 152
Dungkar & Piyang 153
Tirthapuri 153
Rutok (Ritu) 156
Kashgar to Mt. Kailash (Xinjiang-Tibet Highway) 156
Kongpo & Chamdo
(Eastern Part of TAR) 159
Kongpo [Nyangtri (Linzhi) Prefecture] 159
Lhasa to Bayi 162
Bayi 162
Basong Tso (Lake Draksum Lhatso) 163
Nyangtri (Nyingtri) [Linzhi] 165
Mt. Bonri 165
Menling (Milin) 166
Mt. Namcha Barwa 167
Pemako (Metok) [Motuo] 167
Bayi to Pome 167
Lunang (Lulang) 167
Tang-me [Tongmai] 167
Pome (Powo) [Bomi] 168
Chamdo (Changdu) Prefecture 169
Rawok (Ranwu) 169
Dzayul (Chayu) 169
Pasho (Basu) 169
Pomda (Bangda) 169
Yunnan to Bayi 170
Yanjing 170
Markham (Mangkang) 170
Chamdo to Nakchu 171
Chamdo (Changdu) 171
Riwoche (Leiwuqi) 173
Tengchen (Dingqing) 173
Sok Dzong (Suoxian) 173
Lhorong (Luolong) 174
Pelbar (Bianba) 174
Lharigo (Jiali) 174
Dege in Sichuan to Chamdo 174
Chamdo to Pomda 174
Amdo
(Gansu, Qinghai & Sichuan) 175
Gansu Province 177
Lanzhou 177
Linxia 179
Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture 181
Xiahe (Sang-chu) 182
Hezuo (Tsoe) 183
Luqu (Luchu) 184
Taktsang Lhamo (Langmusi) 185
Lintan 186
Zhuoni (Cho-ne) 186
Maqu (Machu) 187
Diebu (Thewo) 187
Zhouqu (Drukchu) 187
Boyu (Boeyul) 187
North-west of Gansu 187
Tianzhu (Pari) 187
Sunan Yugurzu Autonomous County (Zhangye Diqu) 189
Qinghai Province 190
Xining 190
Around Xining & Haidong Diqu (District) 193
Huangzhong (Tsongkha) 193
Huzhu Tu Autonomous County (Gonlung) 194
Ping'an (Tsongkha Khar) 194
Ledu (Drotsang) 195
Hualong Hui Autonomous County (Bayan Khar) 195
Xunhua (Xunhua Salar Autonomous County) [Dowi] 195
Xining-Golmud-Lhasa 195
Qinghai Hu (Lake Kokonor) 196
Golmud (Ge'ermu) 197
Huangnan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture 198
Tongren (Repkong) 198
Zeku (Tsekok) 200
Henan Mongol Autonomous County (Sogwo) 201
Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture 202
Gonghe (Chabcha) 202
Xinghai (Tsigorthang) 203
Guide (Trika) 204
Guinan (Mangra) 205
Tongde (Kawasumdo) 206
Guoluo (Golok) Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture 207
Maduo (Mato) 207
Maqin (Dawu) 210
Gande (Gabde) 211
Dari (Jimai) [Darlag] 212
Banma (Padma) [Parma] 213
Jiuzhi (Jigdril) 214
Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (Jyekundo) 214
Yushu (Jyekundo) 214
Chengduo (Trindu) 218
Sumang (Zurmang) Region 218
To the Source of the Mekong River 218
ABA (Ngawa) Tibetan & Qiang Autonomous Prefecture (Sichuan) 219
Wenchuan (Lungu) 220
Maoxian (Maowen Qiang Autonomous County) 220
Heishui (Trochu) 221
Songpan (Zungchu) 221
Huanglong (Sertso) 222
Jiuzhaigou 223
Nanping (Namphel) 224
Lixian (Tashiling) 224
Ma'erkang (Barkam) 225
Jinchuan (Rabden) 226
Xiaojin (Tsenlha) 226
Rangtang (Zamthang) 227
Aba (Ngawa) 227
Hongyuan (Mewa) 228
Ruo'ergai (Dzoge) 229
Eastern Kham
(Ganzi Prefecture & Muli County, Sichuan Province) 231
Chengdu 233
Ganzi (Kandze) Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture 237
Kangding (Dartsedo) 237
Mugecuo Lake (Yeren Hai) 241
Around Kangding 242
Luding (Chakzamka) 242
Mt. Minya Konka (Gongga Shan) 243
Hailuogou Glacier Park 243
Kangding to Ganzi, Dege, etc. (Sichuan-Tibet Highway North) 245
Danba (Rongtrak) 245
Jiulong (Gyezil) 246
Xinduqiao (Dzongzhab) 246
Tagong (Lhagang) [Hargong] 246
Bamei (Garthar) 247
Daofu (Tawu) 248
Luhuo (Drango) 249
Seda (Sertal) 250
Ganzi (Kandze) 250
Xinlong (Nyarong) 253
Baiyu (Pelyul) 253
Manigango 254
Xinluhai (Yilhun Lhatso) 254
Dege (Derge) 254
Monasteries around Dege 256
Shiqu (Sershul) [Serxu] 257
Kangding to Litang and Batang (Sichuan-Tibet Highway South) 258
Yajiang (Nyakchuka) 258
Litang (Lithang) 258
Batang (Bathang) 260
Yunnan to Litang (Lithang) 260
Xiangcheng (Chaktreng) 260
Daocheng (Dabpa) 260
Derong 260
Muli Tibetan Autonomous County, Sichuan Province 260
Dechen
(Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province) 263
Yunnan to Tibet 263
Kunming 263
Dali (Dali Gucheng) 267
Lijiang (Jang Sadam) 268
Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture 270
Zhongdian (Gyalthang) 270
Deqin (Dechen) [Jol] 274
Weixi (Balung) 275
Lugu Hu (Lake) 276
Ninglang 278
Yongning 278
Ladakh & Zanskar 279
Delhi 279
From Manali to Leh 283
Manali 283
From Srinagar to Leh 284
Srinagar 286
Ladakh 286
Leh 287
Leh to the South: Gompas in the Indus Valley 291
Leh and the West: Gompas on the Kargil Route 292
Trekking from Leh 293
Dha/Hanu Villages 294
Nubra Valley 295
East Ladakh 297
Zanskar 298
Padam (Padum) 298
Padam (Padum)-Phugtal-Darcha 299
Padam (Padum)-Zangla-Lamayuru 299
Padam (Padum)-Sani-Kargil 302
Lahaul 303
Keylong 303
Spiti 305
Kaza 305
Kinnaur 308
Shimla (Simla) 308
Sarahan 308
Rekong Peo 310
Kalpa 310
Sangla 310
Kanam 311
Puh 311
Nako 311
Chango 311
Shalkar 312
Dharamsala 312
Other Areas Settled by Tibetan Refugees in India 315
Himachal Pradesh & Uttar Pradesh [North-west India] 315
Karnataka State [Southern India] 317
Central India 317
Nepal 319
Road to Nepal 323
Kathmandu 324
Trekking to the Tibetan World 333
Route to Bigu Gompa & Surrounding Area 336
Everest Trekking 336
Lukla to Hile 338
The Mt. Kangchenjunga Area 338
Langtang 338
Manaslu North 339
Pokhara 342
Annapurna Area Trekking 343
The Annapurna Sanctuary 343
Jomsom & Muktinath Area 346
Manang Area 349
Lo Manthang (Mustang) 351
Dolpo 354
Lumbini 355
Sikkim 357
Kolkata (Calcutta) 357
West Bengal 360
Darjeeling 360
Kalimpong 364
Sikkim 365
Central & Eastern Sikkim 367
Gangtok 367
Northern Sikkim 370
Western Sikkim 371
Geyzing 371
Yoksum 372
Arunachal Pradesh 372
Bhutan 375
Phuntsholing ('Free Zone') 383
Western Bhutan 384
Paro 384
Thimphu 386
Shopping in Thimphu 388
Punakha 390
Central Bhutan 391
Trongsa 391
The Bumthang Valleys 391
Eastern Bhutan 392
Mongar 392
Lhuntse 392
Tashigang 392
Samdrup Jongkhar 393
Tashi Yangtse 393
Articles
Be Careful with Mountain Sickness 21
The Dalai Lamas 35
Tibetan Buddhist Culture Outside Tibet 54
Losar in Kathmandu 62
The 10th Panchen Lama 132
Hitchhiking in Tibet 189
Dolpo Flight Request 354
Tibet Photos 262
Appendix 395
Survival Tibetan 395
Survival Chinese 398
Chinese Place Names 400
Embassies 404
Index
Tibet & China 406
India, Nepal & Bhutan 411
Map Index 414